One other thing to check is that the check valve is free to actuate and will hold against the head imposed by the hill. Depending on family size I might consider a backup pump maybe even battery backup if you suffer from frequent or worse yet long power outage.įive years service with no maintenance inspection on the pump does not sound too unreasonable to me. This is one piece of equipment where when the XXXX hits the fan you must have it operable. While you are tinkering with it put in a manual switch to override all the automated stuff. The 1/8" hole in discharge piping is to prevent air lock - it will bypass some of the pumped back to the tank but probably not enough to matter - the other thing it will do is prevent overheating of the impeller and more important the seals if it is running at shutoff head - but if you get into that problem I think the cause is going to be expensive enough that you are not going to be worrying about a $200 pump. Pump in 30 gal tank should be sewage designed pump with cutters in it to chop fiber. Double that if they use a garbage grinder. Septic tank should have solids pumped every 3 years for the "average" (whatever that is) family. Great guys to sit down with at coffee - you NEVER want to see them with a failed drain field - especially if it is yours. If that happens (WHEN if you are too cheap to pump solids from septic tank) you will get to know your friendly Public Health folk very well. water only should go from septic tank to the drain field. Septic tank settles solids ie dirt and does anaerobic digestionĤ. Pump pumped 30 gallon to the septic tankģ. Have worked on one system where pumped uphill. I am not a sewage expert mostly cause it is a XXXXXX job. Thanks for the time reading and look forward to some responses, Would this be recommended in an effluent pump installation as well. I found a diagram of a sewage pump installation that showed a 1/8" hole drilled in the pipe a couple of inches from the pump outlet "to prevent airlocking". If a pump is rated as an effluent pump is it designed to work with liquid waste as is my case and should a sewage pump not be used in my case. Being an electrician I couldn't argue the point until today at work I talked to a cooworker with some experience with a similar system and he recommended NOT to use a sewage pump as it could pump solids into the tile bed making for a costly problem. Today the whole thing is getting pumped out and another neighbor has advised that the original 1/2 h.p 120V effluent pump should actually have been a "sewage" pump. I had her plug the pump back in to see if the alarm would cancel and it did not indicating that the pump is definately the problem. It did last night while she was in the shower. I disconnected the timer, unplugged the pump and had her do her business as usual to see if the alarm would eventually go off on the emergency high level float. Using the hastely penned print in the junction box I determined that the pump run-on timer had caused the alarm. Well two days ago the buzzer went off again and I got the call again. In the end we had a new "effluent pump" a new high level float (of a very similar quality to those we use every day in my workplace) a control system including a GFI circuit monitoring, pump run-on timer, and high level switch tied into the original buzzer alarm. I, being the good neighbor agreed to help. The pump was open circuit on the windings and the high level float switch was shorted out. I found she had a septic tile bed located higher than the septic tank and was using an "effluent" pump to pump from the tank up to the tile bed. Turned out she heard a buzzer from her basement that was labelled septic alarm that she turned off then she had a breaker trip in the panel. The backstory is, 5 years ago my neighbor called with the dreaded question, "you are an electrician right?". I apologize in advance for such an off topic post but I know there are some very savy pump specialists here and I have a couple of very specific questions.
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